Choosing the right abrasive can feel like trying to decode a foreign language. With so many different products and technical terms, it's not always obvious what you need—or even what you're being supplied with. That's where we come in. Let's cut through the jargon and explain what really matters. And remember: the "best" abrasive isn't always the best choice for every job. When it comes to sanding wood floors, there are three key factors that determine how an abrasive performs: Coat type Grain type Backing material Coat Type 🥼 There are two main types of abrasive coating: open coat and closed coat. This simply refers to how much of the backing is covered with abrasive grain. An open coat abrasive has small gaps between the grains, meaning you can often see patches of the backing material—especially in the coarser grits. While it might seem logical that more abrasive grain equals better performance, that's not always the case. Open coat abrasives are much better at resisting clogging because dust has somewhere to escape. The trade-off is that, with fewer abrasive particles doing the work, they generally don't last quite as long. The type of machine also makes a difference. Sanding discs tend to clog more quickly than belts, so a more open coat is often the better choice for discs. Grain Type 🌾 The three main abrasive grains used for wood floor sanding are: Silicon Carbide – Ideal for fine sanding and finishing. Zirconia – A great all-round performer, offering a good balance of cutting speed and durability. Ceramic – The longest-lasting and most durable option, particularly on harder woods. One common misconception is that zirconia and ceramic abrasives are made entirely from those materials. In reality, both are blended with aluminium oxide, and every manufacturer uses its own formula. Some blends contain a much higher percentage of ceramic or zirconia than others. Many manufacturers produce several grades of ceramic and zirconia abrasives, although they may only supply one grade specifically for the flooring industry. As a general rule, be cautious of products that seem unusually cheap. If a ceramic abrasive costs less than a comparable zirconia product, there's a good chance it contains only a small percentage of ceramic. As with most things, if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. Backing Material 🥾 The backing is just as important as the abrasive grain itself. The two most common backing materials are: Paper Cloth Both are available in different weights and thicknesses, which affect flexibility, strength and lifespan. In many cases, the backing material has as much impact on durability as the abrasive grain. For example, a cloth-backed zirconia abrasive will often outlast a paper-backed ceramic abrasive, despite ceramic being the tougher grain. Choosing the Right Abrasive The toughest abrasive isn't always the right one. Ceramic abrasives perform best on hard timbers because they need a hard surface to keep the grain sharp. Use them on soft pine, and you're unlikely to see the benefits. Likewise, if you're stripping an old, dirty floor that's quickly clogging abrasives with paint, varnish or contaminants, there's little point in using premium abrasives. They'll clog just as quickly as a budget product, so save the expensive abrasives for when they'll actually make a difference. The right abrasive depends on the job—not simply on which one costs the most. Choosing the right abrasive isn't always as simple as buying the most expensive one. In fact, using the wrong abrasive can cost you both time and money. Here are the three things that really matter: 🥼 Coat Type Open coat abrasives have more space between the grains, making them far less likely to clog—ideal for sanding discs and dirty floors. Closed coat abrasives pack in more grain, but can clog more quickly. 🌾 Grain Type There are three main abrasive grains used for wood flooring: Silicon Carbide – Best for finishing. Zirconia – The all-round workhorse. Ceramic – The longest-lasting option for hard timbers. One thing many people don't realise is that ceramic and zirconia abrasives are actually blends with aluminium oxide, and the percentage varies between manufacturers. That's why not all "ceramic" abrasives perform the same—and why a suspiciously cheap ceramic abrasive probably isn't all it's cracked up to be. 🥾 Backing Material Paper or cloth? It matters more than you might think. A quality cloth-backed zirconia abrasive will often outlast a paper-backed ceramic because the backing is just as important as the grain itself. The Bottom Line The best abrasive is the one that's right for the job. There's no point using premium ceramic on soft pine, and there's no point clogging expensive abrasives when you're stripping a filthy old floor. Need advice? Give us a call. We'll recommend the right abrasive for your job—not the one we simply want to sell. No sales patter. No upselling. Just honest advice from people who know abrasives.

• Aluminium oxide – cheap, fine for pine, not great for hardwoods. • Silicon carbide – mainly for Granwood floors. • Zirconium – tough, self-sharpening, perfect for hardwoods. • Ceramic – more expensive but outlasts every other type. They also give a much more even finish.

Q: Where do I start? A: Depends how rough the floor is, but typical sequence might run: 16 → 24 → 36 → 40 → 50 → 60 → 80 → 100 → 120 → 150 Never skip more than one grit level above 36 – those scratches will haunt you later.