We accept returns within 14 days of delivery for unopened and unused products. Customized orders are non-returnable. Requests to return perishable goods (water based products) will not be accepted between the 1st of October and the 28th of February.

Usually as a result of either moisture in the timber coming up from below, or heat/wet forcing moisture into the finish from above.

Usually as a result of not maintaining a ‘wet edge’ during application. This can be a problem with too little being applied, a warm dry building in the winter, the UFH still running during application, too much airflow during application, and an unwise method of coating the area leaving area ‘open’ for too long.

Generally most brands and types of water based lacquer are compatible for use coat on coat (you should NEVER mix lacquers on the same coat!), however you should always give the underlying coat a light sand to give it a key and increase adhesion of the different lacquer being used on top. It is a good idea to do a test patch if you can and check with adhesion with the ‘coin test’.

Leave the lacquer at least 24 hours to adhere, and then take a large round coin (or similar) and rub the edge of the coin across the floor with medium pressure (enough to lightly scratch the surface). If there is an adhesion problem the top layer of lacquer will ‘flake’ or ‘shell off’ the under layer.

There is a reason why manufacturers state an amount of lacquer to be applied per coat. If you find that you ‘can't put any more on’ or ‘I can't put it on any thinner’ then you are using the wrong tools or technique to apply the product! If you do not apply the right amount you will not get the spec that the manufacturer states on the can and the data sheet. Too little and you will have less wear resistance, an uneven finish and possibly even adhesion issues. Too much and you will slow down the drying and curing time. It isn’t just to sell more lacquer or whatever conspiracy theory you think, it is a carefully and scientifically arrived at specification to give the specified properties that were presumably why you bought the product in the first place.

Q: I’ve laid prefinished boards – can I apply an extra coat on site? A: Sometimes yes… but tread carefully. Factory-applied finishes are often UV cured and can be extremely resistant to anything you try to put over the top. If you use the wrong product, the new coat may simply peel off later. Always check compatibility with the manufacturer, lightly abrade the surface to give it a key, and test a small hidden area first before committing to the whole floor.

This can be caused be a number of reasons. Lacquers have de-foaming agents and levelling-agents in them to help them to level out, and any small bubbles to disperse before the lacquer dries. These levelling and defoaming agents can be damaged by the lacquer freezing (or nearly freezing), contamination in the timber, or if the product is out of date.

As building timescales get shorter (we are getting more impatient!) the popularity of calcium sulphate screeds (also known as Gypsum or Anhydrite) has increased, bringing many challenges to flooring contractors. However, these screeds don't need to cause a problem provided some basic rules are followed. 1. Ensure that the surface laitance has been removed, to allow the screed to dry out. Reliable moisture readings can’t be taken until this has been done. Even with optimum conditions it will take at least 1 day per mm to dry sufficiently. 2. If there is UFH then it must have been commissioned and run for a minimum of 2 weeks (ask for our UFH laying guidelines) 3. Once the screed is dry, a primer should be used to aid the adhesion of the adhesive. 4. Don't use cement based levelling compounds without a primer. Cement and Gypsum don't like each other...